The Statue and the Synagogue

AMST wmns view one bigThis is what the women saw.  There are few sanctuaries more beautiful and moving than this 1675 Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue in Amsterdam, and here the women, while separated, were still able to share its beauty.  In fact, in many ways, they saw more.

AMST windows1The service, certainly, but also the outside world for which they prayed.  It was a hike to get there, of course, but the dignity and faith that infuses the place was more available to them than in many other observant synagogues.  It’s difficult to describe the peace and beauty of this place, even with a photo.  Or two.  The black and white one is a wedding photo taken in the synagogue.

Amsterdam stairway to wmns sec Portuguese

AMST syn

AMST wedding pic

Amsterdam Spinoza

 

 

So where you ask is the statue?  Well, he’s right here.  Baruch Spinoza, whose ideas wreaked havoc in religious communities of Europe.  Here’s what Wikipedia says:

Philosopher Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel said of all contemporary philosophers, “You are either a Spinozist or not a philosopher at all.”[8]

Spinoza’s given name in different languages is Hebrew: ברוך שפינוזה‎ Baruch Spinoza, Portuguese: Benedito or Bento de Espinosa and Latin: Benedictus de Spinoza; in all these languages, the given name means “the Blessed”. Spinoza was raised in the Portuguese Jewish community in Amsterdam. He developed highly controversial ideas regarding the authenticity of the Hebrew Bible and the nature of the Divine. The Jewish religious authorities issued a cherem (Hebrew: חרם, a kind of ban, shunning, ostracism, expulsion, or excommunication) against him, effectively excluding him from Jewish society at age 23. His books were also later put on the Catholic Church’s Index of Forbidden Books.

A powerful figure in Jewish history and history in general, he stands just steps from the Synagogue, there – and not there; a compelling figure of faith — and doubt.

We are currently sailing through the Kiel Canal, an engineering feat that cut northern Europe in half and created a pathway that reduced isolation for many.  Tonight we stop in Helsingborg, Sweden and Friday night, in Copenhagen.

Rainy Rouen

Carousel in the rain outside Notre Dame Cathedral, Rouen
Carousel in the rain outside Notre Dame Cathedral, Rouen

This sweet carousel was deserted; buckets of rain would have discouraged even the most determined child.  It sits outside the Rouen version of a Notre Dame cathedral.  This one contains, we hear, the heart of Richard the Lionhearted, and is beautiful but not off the charts compared to some others we’ve seen.

Rouen in the rain
Rouen in the rain

Rouen was a surprise; lovely in a modest sort of way – even the H&M and Printemps stores were little.  The history is profound however, for it was here that Joan of Arc was burned at the stake.

We have spent a lot of time on this trip with people with strong Catholic faith.  Visiting cathedrals and shrines with them has really illuminated the meaning and depth of emotion they communicate.  It’s been very moving.

The rest of the day we sailed down the Seine and out into the sea enroute to the Schelde River and Antwerp.

 

Storm enroute to Antwerp It was stormy and the ship bounced around a bit.  Now we’re almost there and the River is calm and wide, giving us time to process all we’ve seen.  Half of us leave the cruise in Amsterdam on Monday so we’re also preparing goodbyes to people we’ve come admire and care about.  Yet another gift of life on the road (or water, really)